A muffled “hello!” at the flap of our tent woke me from a deep sleep.
One of the staff dumped our wash basins and refilled them with warm water. Was it 5:30 already? We dressed quickly, stuffed gear into our bags, and tumbled out towards the campfire and breakfast.
As Braston poured milk into his tea, he asked, “Did you hear the lions last night?”
Lions? I’d heard no lion. I’d had the sleep of the dead.
“Yes,” said Carolyn, “they sounded close.”
I held my bowl, and Boniface spooned porridge into it.
“Twas the Naughty Boys.” Braston took the seat next to a brazier of coals and began toasting bread. “I think we will try south. Chris found tracks going through camp and heading out that way.”
The sky changed from darker to lighter gray. A bit of rose touched the edges.
“Do you think we’ll find them?”
Braston shrugged. “They were here about an hour ago. It will depend on how fast they move.”
The Naughty Boys
We had seen the Nsefu pride of lions our second night in Zambia on an evening game drive. The dominant male had been shot a year earlier, when the pride strayed outside of the Luangwa National Park boundaries.
Zambia lifted its ban on hunting lions in 2015, and the Nsefu pride fell victim in 2016. For a year, the adult females worked to keep the pride free of a new male — as a new dominant male lion would kill all offspring under a certain age.
The “Naughty Boys” are two youngish males, around three years old, so more mature than the young lion in the top photograph. They had recently moved into the area. Braston called them the Naughty Boys since they were deviling the Nsefu females who didn’t want the “boys” anywhere near the younger members of their pride.
There were just three guests in Luangwa Bush Camp, myself, my daughter Catherine, and my sister Carolyn. For three days, we had been doing mobile bush camping with Robin Pope Safaris — comfortable, and very solitary.
I sipped coffee and considered the tawny gold of a lion’s eyes. On the ground, with us.
I trusted our guide Braston knew his business.
A short time later, we walked out of camp single file behind Chris the ranger, who was on the lead with a a rifle.
In Search of Lion
The sun burned through the cloud cover, and we walked through terrain covered in yellowed grass and lumps of low shrubby growth. During the rainy season, oxbow lagoons fill with water that gradually dry out to nothing.
Chris and Braston tracked the Naughty Boys most of the morning.
This worked for our plan, as they were going our way, toward Nsefu camp. On the road, the boys’ tracks were easy to see. When the lions crossed back off into the grass, our guides could follow them, but to untrained eyes, this was not so easy.
Braston showed us our first lion hairballs — all hair with bits of bone.
We finally caught sight of the lions across an oxbow lake with a low fill of muddy water.
The Naughty Boys saw us, too. They stood, one turned half towards us, while his brother gave us a bare glance over his shoulder. Five heartbeats later, golden skin and savanna melded together, swaying the grass. Then all was still.
We would not catch them on foot.
Our time with lions would begin the following day, when we spent over an hour surrounded by the Nsefu pride.
Earless, the Demon Hippo
Our track continued along a ten-foot-wide trail, with dense thicket on our right, and the edge of the oxbow on our left. This oxbow “lagoon” had little water left, and resembled a wide, deep ditch. A hippo stood belly-deep in water. This had been a common sight on our three days of walking, but this . . . this fellow was anything but a common hippo.
Instead of seeing lions up-close, we’d found Earless.
Chris paused and put his arm back, and Braston turned and hissed softly, “We know this guy. He has no ears from an old fight. Makes him VERY aggressive. Quickly, now. Be quiet. Pay ATTENTION.” He made hand signs showing we would go straight, then angle away from the oxbow as soon as the brush thinned.
We accelerated to double time, keeping our eyes on the massive, scarred back. Single file — the five of us stepped along rapidly — we were two yards past the hippo — then a few yards more — and then another — I started breathing easier. I watched my daughter’s back; she was just behind Braston. Still a few yards more and I thought, — “done.”
Suddenly, the hippo whirled and raised his head in our direction, chuffing and snorting. Like quicksilver he raced, splashing, churning the shallow water into yellow-brown waves. He ran — easily catching and traveling parallel to us, then past us ten yards, finally charging up a hippo highway out of the oxbow — and popping up over the top of the bank, to stand facing us, snorting.
Earless was twenty yards away.
Under Braston’s guidance our line took three steps back. Chris took one step forward, arms and rifle raised high, stomping and snorting. Then he stood still and gave a loud hippo chortle. I put my hand on Catherine’s shoulder.
Everyone waited for this over-expanded rubber band to pop. In my anxiety, I imagined the scene from above . . . I could see the wide line made by the oxbow ditch, then the narrow dark line of the thicket. Right in the middle, an exclamation point — a skinny line drawn by a row of five humans — with a massive hippo-blotch point at the disconnected end.
Earless snorted, swung around, and jogged in the opposite direction, kicking up dust.
He is a large and heavily scarred male hippo. Braston says he almost certainly lost his ears in a fight with a dominant male, challenging for leadership of a pod. When he lost, and his ears along with it, he was doomed to live a solitary life. Because Earless cannot hear well, he compensates by being overly aggressive — hoping to terrorize anything that might threaten him. They had not seen him on this side of the Luangwa River in more than a year.
A few yards on, our little band veered away as the brush thinned enough for us to enter, and walked on toward our next camp.
None of us shot pictures of this — the whole thing happened too quickly, and it was not the time for cameras. I am including a video of an aggressive hippo from the South Luangwa National Park, where we were. I only recently noticed that the second hippo is . . . earless.
Hippo chase from Johan Vermeulen Media on Vimeo.
Welcoming Committee at Robin Pope’s Nsefu Camp
Around 11:00, we neared Nsefu camp to be welcomed by a small group of elephants, who had just come up from the Luangwa River.
The camp hostess Ruth met us at the entrance to Nsefu’s main building, holding a tray of rolled wet towels, chilled and refreshing. We had arrived in our new home — the fabled Nsefu, a riverine camp on a great bend in the Luangwa.
Staff took us to our rondels, which were adjacent to one another. Our luggage was already there, next to our beds.
After dropping day packs, cameras, and field glasses, our family came together again with Braston at the great Nsefu bar for pre-lunch cocktails and wine. Four giraffes took their late morning drink from the watering hole not far away. Catherine, Carolyn, and I raised a glass with our guide.
It was difficult to find words to say how much our time with him had meant to us, and instead, I gave him a big hug.
When Ruth announced that Braston would continue to be our guide for the three nights at Nsefu, Catherine’s resounding, “YES!!” surprised the giraffe.
Our walking safari had come to an end, and we were on to the next chapter in our African adventure.
Many say that going on safari in Zambia is as close to old safaris in Africa as you can get — where you feel remote, alone with the animals, and away from the modern tourism circus. This was our experience. And I can hardly wait to return.
Looking for reviews of Robin Pope Walking Safaris, or reviews of Walking Safaris in the South Luangwa National Park in Zambia? You’ve found my multiple article safari review, with links below:
Links to all articles on our Robin Pope Safari |
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The beginning of our Robin Pope Safari:So, you want to go on safari in Africa. But where? To say that the continent is vast is a gross understatement. Africa holds more than 20 percent of the Earth’s total land mass. How we chose Zambia and an account of the beginning of our safari. |
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Into the Bush: Day One of our Walking Safari in ZambiaWe walked single-file out of the Camp Tena Tena just after dawn on a Sunday morning. There were six of us. |
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Hippo Highways: Day Two of our Walking Safari in ZambiaAfter a light breakfast and some coffee, we left for our second day of walking. Why do three women from Texas love Hippo Highways? Because in Africa, even flat isn’t flat! Very special: Braston’s Just-So style story of How the Hippo Came to Live in the River |
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Preparing for an African Safari:Bucket list African trip? Getting ready for a safari: insurance, health concerns, and what to bring: luggage options, and packing list. |
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Below, you’ll find two interesting lion resources. One is an article about why lions live in prides — and it’s not for the reason most of us think! The other is a post that will give you a good visual guide to be able to tell how old a wild lion is — either in real life or in a photograph.
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[…] at the San Diego Zoo is not our dream of Africa. Ann Cavitt Fisher’s (@acavittfisher) experiences on a walking safari are more of our […]
Hi,
Have any news about a lion named Misfit ? He’s part of the Nsefu pride in Zambia.
I do not. But you might try writing to Robin Pope Safaris via their contact page to ask. Emily writes the “It’s Monday” newsletter every week, and she might know something. You’ll find the newsletters here: https://robinpopesafaris.net/blog/category/its-monday/ — then the Contact page is available from the top menu.
Thank you very much ? !!
[…] at the San Diego Zoo is not our dream of Africa. Ann Cavitt Fisher’s (@acavittfisher) experiences on a walking safari are more of our […]
Wow what an adventure Ann. Quite the hair balls too. Never thought of big cats coughing up those suckers like our little house cats. Amazing experience.
Neither had I — makes me feel much less cranky about cleaning up the little ones 🙂 .
Thanks for the info. I will add to my bucket list now:)
Seeing big cats in the wild would be a dream come true. I never know how I feel about taking a safari. I guess it scares me a little. But lions… oh, how I’d love to see them up close.
It is AMAZING. And when you are in one of the Land Cruisers, the lions look you as one big monster entity. You can observe safely from a pretty close distance. I fell in love with the whole things, and find myself looking at trips to Africa more and more these days.
You saw two of my favourite animals that day! Elephants and hippos. I had never seen a hippo run so fast, open the mouth so wide, and being so aggressive. You make me want to book a safari trip and witness them in their natural habitat!
I have always wanted to go to Africa, especially on a Safari. Ever since I saw the Lion Hunt on the series ‘Planet Earth’ it made me feel oddly sad yet inspired at how well the Lions hunted together. PS- good for those ladies for sticking together and not letting a male back in, lol.
Haha, “I’d heard no lion. I’d had the sleep of the dead.” I can perfectly hear that line delivery in my head! Your writing style is very descriptive and paints a great setup in my mind. I had heard that the honey badger had no natural predators because it was so aggressive, but they look so unassuming! Lion hairballs…nope, never thought about that either. I’m not sure I have words for how they look! So sad that Earless has to now live a life of solitary especially since he can’t hear well. Scary moment too! I had no idea they could move that fast! I’m highly interested in doing something like this!
Yes, the honey badgers are fearless — there are some amazing videos on Youtube. One has some young lions who do actually kill one of the honey badgers — only because he just wouldn’t stop attacking them.
I felt sorry for Earless too — after I calmed down later. And yes, hippos are fast! The most dangerous animal in Africa.
Okay, this makes me desperately need to get on a safari ASAP. Hippos are my favorite animal and I can’t wait to see one in the wild. The honey badger is awesome – they look like an elegant skunk haha. Also, those hairballs? Yikes.
Honey Badger don’t care… I love your writing Ann. You took me to one of my dream places tonight – the plains of Africa. You did it with style and flair too. I am absolutely in love and entranced with Africa, but I want to see it just like you describe. Not riding around for a couple of hours in a jeep chasing fresh kills and drawing in the jackals.
I almost linked to “Honey Badger Don’t Care” 🙂 .
Well, glad you liked it. It has been my ultimate bucket list trip. But now I want to go back.
This is a dream of my husband’s who is a photographer. He would not sleep if it meant more action! The tents look very comfortable! The idea of the lions walking through camp at night would make me nervous about using the toilet, but other than that, I know the guides know their stuff!
Andi, you might want to try a morning of walking out of one of the permanent camps. You get the experience of walking in the bush, along with a lovely chalet or permanent camps — and a complete bathroom connected to your sleeping space. No worries about outdoor visitors. And game driving is stupendous. You are able to get closer to animals and take photographs, normally without the kind of surprises we had with Earless.
What a lovely experience, especially because you were staying at portable camps, I’d love to do that. So cute how they named the lions The Naughty Boys, haha. I’d be a little scared though, if I was sleeping in a tent and there were lions roaming close. I’ve never done a wildlife safari, its on the top of my list right now!
You know, being a little scared is the whole point. To see the bush from the ground, as an animal. And not to feel so untouchable.
Just wonderful account! I thought the beginning with the lions being so close was amazing and then… The story of Earless is incredible and that you found that video. I’d love to do a safari one day.
Thank you. Elaine, I so loved being there — the whole experience was amazing. And now I can hardly wait to return.
What an amazing experience you guys had. Honestly I would have been scared being so close to the wild in the nature. Your guide was really amazing. Great narration and pictures.
You would probably be much happier on driving safari at Nsefu or Tena Tena. You still get to the the animals close, many actually closer than you would on walking safari — but since they see the entire safari vehicle as one massive loud animal, they want NOTHING to do with it — and certainly have no interest in attacking it.
I have never considered a walking safari. At first I thought no way, then I was into it, especially after the lion hairball. But then earless, earless would have scared the hell out of me!!!
Well, Earless was a surprise for everyone. A normal hippo would have been fine with the distance we were on our walking track. But sometimes you have encounters that no one was expecting. It’s the reason why the walking safari guides have the highest level of training, and why there is a park ranger with a high-powered rifle with you.
What an incredible adventure. Getting that close to nature is exciting but I have to admit I’m a little scared given I usually go to the bathroom in the middle of the night. Sounds like you had a terrific guide, which really enhanced your experience. This is a perfect guide for those dreaming of an African safari.
Well, I did get up an go to the bathroom in the middle of the night. There is a night watchman. The bush “loo” was very comfortable, enclosed and — a real porcelain toilet on top of a pit latrine, with a pail of sand to scatter on top was your “flush.” Then there was a portable wash basin and soap just outside. There are kerosene lanterns at key points, and the loos are close to the tents.
And of course in all of the permanent camps, like Nsefu, your bathroom is right there, attached to your room. I think for many people a standard driving safari at camps like Tena Tena, Nsefu, and Luangwa River House is the perfect way to go. But we did truly love our time walking — felt safe, and thought the mobile camp was very comfortable — definitely glamping compared to how I do it at home!
What an incredible experience!! It’s adventure after adventure. I would love to stay in a safari tent or rondels while on an actual, natural safari and to see such beautiful animals in their natural habitats. Your story is really inspirational.
Thank you, Susan — so happy you liked the post. I loved staying in both the mobile tented safari camps, as well as the elegant and more posh experiences like Nsefu. The combination was perfect.
And the animals! I could spend hours watching them without ever feeling restless.
What a fascinating read. I’d love to go on a safari in Africa, but didn’t know there was such a thing as a walking safari. It looks like an amazing and intimate experience.
Alouise, I have travelled A LOT. But this was, by far, my favorite trip EVER.
You have a great narrative style and I read every word. I thought I’d be scared of the lions but Earless takes the cake. What an experience.
Thank you, Carol 🙂 .
When you are walking, the intent is always to stay much further away from the big animals than you would get in a Range Rover. It is those unexpected encounters that get the adrenaline going — and of course are the reason that the park ranger carries a high powered rifle.
I would love to stay at those rondels of Nsefu and have Braston as our guide!
Yes, Nsefu is very special. We had some amazing game drives there — and FYI, you can also arrange for a morning or afternoon walk instead of a game drive, without having to go full-on walking safari.
The camp director needs to know a bit ahead, because it requires a guide with a walking safari certification — the highest guide certification that Zambia grants. AND you have to have a park ranger with a high powered rifle with you.
I love reading this. How can anyone sleep through when lions are making noise closeby in the middle of the night is beyond me. But love it! 🙂 So need to do a safari one day. 🙂
My daughter, Cat, said the same thing!