“According to Apache legend, after creating the universe, the Great Spirit tossed a large pile of leftover boulders and debris on the Big Bend.”
“Oh, so you’ve been to Big Bend . . .”
Yes. I’ve been so many times that I have lost count. I was married in Marathon, Texas, about 70 miles north of the ranger station. When I die, it is where I want my ashes spread.
What is it about the Big Bend?
The park’s name comes from the 100 mile long big bend in the Rio Grande river that forms the Texas-Chihuahua-Coahuila border. At over 1,250 square miles, Big Bend is approximately the size of Rhode Island. It’s so remote that it remains the least visited of the National Parks in the United States.
I went the first time in the summer of 1993, when a dear friend from the Netherlands came to spend the summer with me. I wanted to show him a big western landscape, and I didn’t have the money to fly us out to Utah or to the Grand Canyon. Texas Monthly magazine ran an article about the Big Bend a month before my friend arrived. I was transfixed. Here was this amazing, wild space — that I had never considered — in easy driving distance from Houston. Okay, perhaps not easy. But we could get there in one long day’s drive.
I have been visiting Big Bend for twenty three years now, and I really have lost count of how many times I’ve been.
Why do I keep going?
Vast open spaces speak to me. Sky and the rocky terrain take turns dominating. The wind blows a rushing,”Shush Ssh, Ssshhhh Ssshhh,” through the needles of the juniper and pinyon pine of the Chisos mountains. I travel on the wind, up and over peaks, then fall back towards the desert floor. A cactus wren perches on a prickly pear pad and tells of the glory of the day in liquid song. Peregrine falcons call, their voices bouncing back and forth, down the walls of the canyon to mingle with the water flowing around boulders. I hear thoughts. I see time. I feel eternity. God, in all mystery — resides here.
James Houston Evans has devoted his life to capturing the landscape and the people of this part of Texas. His photography is extraordinary. Sometimes grand. Often intimate. Time and true understanding of his subject make him the visual expert on this corner of the world. If you visit the Evans website, you’ll be rewarded with a wonderful collection of images. It was James Evans’ work that drew me to this wild place. His photographs in a Texas Monthly article compelled my first visit in 1993. He photographed my first wedding in 1997.
“I moved here in 1988 to dedicate my life to the Big Bend and its people. I don’t shoot pictures and leave and make a book. This work is a slow accumulation of years of being here. The mountains are familiar friends and the people my heroes. I am one of them.”
— James Evans
Link to Camping by myself in Big Bend.
Three Distinct Ecosystems and an Extraordinary Birding Area
The area along the Rio Grande, the desert, and the high alpine forest in the Chisos mountains attract many different kinds of birds. Over 450 species have been documented in the park. Because Big Bend is on the central flyway of North America, over the course of a year it is possible to see nearly 2/3 of all the birds found within the continental United States.
When To Visit
The most popular time to visit the park is during the spring, when milder temperatures and flowers are the big draw. Wildflowers and blooming cactus bring rich color to the rocky desert. The two main blooming seasons are in the spring and late summer. Wildflowers begin in the lower elevations of the park near the Rio Grande in late February and continue gradually up into the higher elevations near the Chisos mountains, finishing in late April. If you want to visit in the spring, you must make lodging arrangements well ahead of time.
Flowers in the desert are beautiful, but during the spring people often miss the architecture – the bones of the landscape — as they are drawn to the bright colors. I love other times of the year equally well, and the huge bonus is that the park is not crowded. In the summer, the century plants bloom and and attract hummingbirds during the day and nectar-feeding bats at night. While it is very hot on the desert floor in the summer, since the Chisos mountains are from 5,300 to 7,825 feet above sea level, it is much cooler there. An early in the morning hike is in order, before relaxing during the hottest part of the day, then get back out for incredible sunsets. Often the summer heat creates massive thunderhead clouds in the afternoon, and if you’re lucky — you get a desert thunderstorm (seen James Evans’s photo below).
The winter in Big Bend is a lovely time of the year. Birds from the frozen north visit, choosing the water along the river, desert arroyos, or pines in the high elevations.
I’ve spent half of my life returning to the Big Bend, and I love taking people along. Care to join me?
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**** Opening quote at beginning of article is from:
Jameson, J. R. (1996). The story of Big Bend National Park. Austin: University of Texas Press.