My Room with a View

The Christmas tree in front of Santa Maria del Fiore

The Christmas tree in front of Santa Maria del Fiore

In those winter nights next to the Duomo, life came back to me.

Brunelleschi's Dome through one of the apartment windows
Brunelleschi’s Dome through one of the apartment windows

It’s an 88 step climb to a week I now carry with me always.

Paolo opened the door of my taxi. “Ciao, Anna. Your trip was good?”

He took one of my two small bags, and we mountain-goated it up the seemingly endless flights, Paolo chatting to me the whole way. Where was his oxygen coming from? I had no breath for talking. I worked just to make it look like the stairs and the suitcase were not too tough. Then we were there. The terrace and sitting room so close to the Duomo — it seemed I could reach out and touch it.

Mid-December was cold, and dark came early. The lights for the cathedral popped to life. I sat in the upstairs room with a glass of Chianti hardly able to take my eyes off of the beautiful giant. I put on my coat and went out and watched the people and looked down towards the Christmas tree in the piazza.

On this trip, I fell in love with Florence so deeply that it only takes an image of one of its streets to make my heart skip and beat more vigorously.

Il Duomo next to me at night
Il Duomo next to me at night.

My husband, Drew, died in July of 2013 after a long fight with cancer. That November, I began to think about Christmas; the idea of putting up a tree was overwhelming. I had an extra week of vacation that year, while my daughter Catherine was still in school. She would be with her Dad then and I began thinking about taking a week long trip by myself. No one would give me a hard time if there wasn’t much Christmas.

I considered New York . . . San Francisco. I even thought about taking the train across the Rocky Mountains. Nothing was compelling. Europe? Drew and I had visited London and Paris the previous year, his final Christmas, and I had no interest in returning to those cities anytime soon.

ITALY.

I had not been since 1997. And suddenly, that was it. I wanted to go to Florence.

Save up to $500 when you book your flight +hotel!

Time-Life book on Michelangelo from my childhood
Time-Life book on Michelangelo from my childhood

When I was seven, my mother began getting a series of Time-Life books on the great artists of western civilization. Each month, when a new book arrived, we would sit together and look at it. The images of the Duomo have been with me — deep inside of me, almost since I can remember anything. I went on to get a degree in Art History and I have always had a particular love of the Italian Renaissance. So when visiting Florence occurred to me, my heart leapt up.

I looked at hotels, but then I thought, Drew and I had talked about trying apartments abroad. After looking at several apartment websites, I saw this one place — I was transfixed.

The apartment interior was lovely, and it was next to the Duomo — the terrace right there — the cathedral seemed to touch it. It is owned by Ron Blitch, a well-known architect from New Orleans. What a small world, since I had grown up there.

Cheap — oh, no. The cost of a very nice hotel. And it was an 88 step climb to get there. Okay, not a problem for me really; besides, it’s a built in pasta burner. And the view! With no hesitation, I booked it.  I spent the remainder of Thanksgiving reading about Tuscany and starting Rosetta Stone for Italian.

I exchanged several emails with Paolo and his wife Sonia, who manage the apartment, to make arrangements for my arrival. They  offered additional services for a fee, of course. Would I like to have some wine and cheese at the apartment when I arrived? Would I like to hire a driver? What about cooking lessons? Yes!

Where would I like to go the day I had the driver? Hmm. I had been to Siena, San Gimignano, Pienza, Montepulciano . . . I looked at a map of Tuscany and found Montalcino. When I googled it, up popped the small Abbey of Sant’Antimo. What an exquisite Romanesque church! Paolo’s next email said, “well, if you’re going to Montalcino, you must do a Brunello wine tasting.” I had a reasonably good knowledge of California wines. Italian? Past Chianti and Pinot Grigio . . . I’d had Barolo, but  I didn’t really know much about Italian wines.

The weather was sunny and cold for the trip to Montalcino. I had a wonderful driver, Ewan — a Scot who had moved to Florence a dozen years earlier. Many people have the reaction to Florence that I have. We just — we just don’t want to leave.

Brunello region of Tuscany
Headed to the Caparzo Winery in the Brunello region of Tuscany

Brunello. May I just say, had nothing else happened all day, it would have been a perfect experience. I discovered Brunello, and I love it — it is now one of my favorite wines. The wine that day ignited a new passion, and I have been reading about Italian wines, tasting, and making vineyard visits ever since.

At the Caparzo Winery, waiting for my first taste of Brunello.
At the Caparzo Winery, waiting for my first taste of Brunello.

Caparzo did a nice job with the tasting. The three reds that I particularly liked were their Brunello Riserva — wow, what an amazing wine. (I’ve found it fairly easy to get in the U.S. — here is a link to reviews). I also really, really liked La Casa, their single vineyard Brunello. La Caduta is their single vineyard Rosso de Montalcino — I liked it very much, particularly for the price. Their regular Rosso di Montalcino — no, not for the price. Their regular Brunello, very nice, I enjoyed it, but particularly since that point, there are just others I like much more. I have not been able to find La Casa here in Houston; I would consider shipping some back the next time I visit.

Following a late lunch in Montalcino, Ewan took me to Sant’Antimo.

The Abbey church of Sant'Antimo
The Abbey church of Sant’Antimo

There are spaces — holy, quiet, and they fill us with a deep peace. Sant’Antimo is one of them. A small community of monks lives there, and they filed into the Abbey for None prayers — the mid afternoon, 3 p.m. service.

The interior of the Abbey of Sant'Antimo
The interior of the Abbey of Sant’Antimo

Ewan and I took seats midway down the nave. We were the lone visitors. Then the sound of monophonic, unaccompanied male voices, in stepwise progression through the phrases, resonated in the air.

The thick stone walls held us all together; the monks, Ewan, myself, this space, the chant, we became something else for a time.

I did not, would not, take pictures during the service. The photograph of the interior is from before the monks filed into the Abbey. I’ve put a Gregorian chant below to help you imagine the sound.

Each night, I returned to sit next to the dome. With my massive companion, it was quiet. I had time to think, to begin putting some perspective to Drew’s trip through the final months, through hospice, into dementia and finally into death. Each morning, I came up for coffee and listened to the cathedral bells ringing from the campanile.

[wpvideo 3z1UVbMF]

This is, well. I love this place, with all of my heart.

The Christmas tree in front of Santa Maria del Fiore
The Christmas tree in front of Santa Maria del Fiore

And when I returned home, I was so ready to make Christmas. Catherine came home from her father’s and we headed straight out for a tree. We took on a bit more tree than two short people can handle — it was quite a struggle, but we woman-handled it into place.

Wrestling the tree
Wrestling the tree

 

I returned from Florence ready to make Christmas
I returned from Florence ready to make Christmas

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Teaching Catherine to make pasta
Teaching Catherine to make pasta

I look forward to sharing more about this trip, along with the two other trips to Florence over the last year and a half. Ciao!

Interested in learning more about my room with a view?

You’ll find Ron Blitch’s apartment on VRBO – Home Away. It’s pricey, but amazing — I returned six months later to stay again, and brought my daughter and sister with me.

The terrace of my apartment with a view

Update, 2017

I have become friends with Paolo and Sonia, and they now have two apartments in the center of Florence that they lease to visitors.

One is a small, but very lovely apartment a block from the Duomo, called Divina. While it does not have a view, it is gorgeous and very reasonably priced. I am making more frequent trips to Italy, and I have stayed in Divina — lovely space and perfect location just steps from the cathedral.  Oh, and it’s on the first floor (in America, we would call this the second floor), a short set of steps.

The Divina apartment in Florence, owned by Paolo and Sonia.
The Divina apartment in Florence, owned by Paolo and Sonia.

They now also have a a larger apartment they call Milord, with a fabulous view — I think even better than my first ‘room with a view’ because the terrace is larger, the apartment can sleep up to nine people, AND it has an elevator:

Room with a View Milord Apartment terrace view of il duomo
Paolo and Sonia’s rental apartment – amazing terrace views of the Duomo and Giotto’s bell tower (campanile).

 

Thank you for visiting — for other articles on life and travel, browse the home page:

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Ann Fisher

Writer, traveler, and cancer fighter. Get out there and live life!

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40 thoughts on “My Room with a View

  1. Fall in Florence - Ann Cavitt Fisher August 30, 2018 at 6:40 pm

    […] Both the twenty-five year old me and the almost fifty year old me are very happy. And while it is very cold, too cold to sit out on the terrace, I fall asleep on the sofa next to the giant most evenings (you can read about that trip in My Room with a View). […]

    Reply
  2. Christmas in Florence! – Ann Cavitt Fisher December 11, 2017 at 8:16 am

    […] My Room with a View […]

    Reply
  3. dray0308 December 16, 2016 at 6:55 am

    Reblogged this on Dream Big, Dream Often and commented:
    This is Ann Cavitt Fisher!!

    Reply
  4. Manja Mexi Movie November 18, 2016 at 4:45 pm

    Beautiful. I discovered The Abbey of St. Antimo this year by way of another blogger and visited it in April. (Posted about it with many photographs but they say it’s a no-no to link to own post in a comment to another’s). What a place! Firenze I’ve merely brushed by so far, but there is time, or so they say. I’m glad I’ve found you and will stick close.

    Reply
    1. Ann November 18, 2016 at 5:37 pm

      Oh, St. Antimo is so special — and please! Post another comment and link it to your photographs :-). As far as I’m concerned, sharing about your travels to wonderful places is always something I love to see here. So link away!

      I’ve made a visit to your blog, and have to say the same back to you — great to have found you. I look forward to reading.

      Reply
      1. Manja Mexi Movie November 18, 2016 at 5:42 pm

        Oh, thank you for letting me do it. Frankly, I’ve been doing it a lot but recently read it was not recommended. Anyway, here is my post.

        https://manjameximovie.wordpress.com/2016/08/30/intimate-santantimo/

        I found all I’ve read on your blog so far of utmost interest, especially that there is such an insanely gorgeous sailing cruiser from Civitavecchia (I live 50 km to the north) to Piran, Slovenia (my parents live there). I have not yet checked the prices though, possibly for the better. 😉 Cheers and benvenuta!

        Reply
  5. Featured Bloggers 3/19/16: How to Blog Network | Dream Big, Dream Often March 19, 2016 at 5:01 pm

    […] Ann Cavitt Fisher […]

    Reply
  6. mikyriccia January 10, 2016 at 2:46 am

    So glad you enjoyed Florence so much & yes, indeed you had a superb view on the Duomo square!???

    Reply
    1. Ann January 10, 2016 at 7:34 am

      Yes, it was an amazing thing to sit next to the Duomo. It’s odd you know, the way memory works — now I carry it with me. The dome always seems very close.

      Reply
      1. mikyriccia January 10, 2016 at 7:53 am

        I can imagine… so sweet memories!!! have been on the Rinascente roof bar? amazing view too??

        Reply
        1. Ann January 14, 2016 at 8:19 pm

          I have not been to Rinascente — I will have to look for it when I am there the next time.

          Reply
  7. M. L. Kappa January 2, 2016 at 6:49 am

    Bless you, Ann. This is a lovely post. I wish you all the best for the new year. X Marina

    Reply
    1. Ann January 2, 2016 at 7:27 am

      Thank you, Marina. And a wonderful new year for you, too.

      Reply
  8. Featured Bloggers 12/23: Networking 101 | Dream Big, Dream Often December 23, 2015 at 6:21 pm

    […] Ann Cavitt Fisher […]

    Reply
  9. wordstoryaday December 23, 2015 at 3:46 am

    Wow! Merry Christmas and happy holidays 🙂

    <3 WordStory <3

    P.S. Music I Like https://wordstoryaday.wordpress.com/music-i-like/

    Reply
    1. Ann December 23, 2015 at 7:04 am

      Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays back to you :-).

      Reply
  10. Cathy December 21, 2015 at 7:22 am

    How lovely and thanks for writing this. First let me say how sorry I am about your husband. Second I’m impressed you took such initiative to plan an exquisite vacation such as this one. Oh, Italia! I want to go back NOW!!!!

    P.S. Nice to “meet” you from Janice Wald’s blog Mostly Blogging.

    Reply
    1. Ann December 21, 2015 at 7:27 am

      Cathy, Thank you so much. Lovely to “meet” you, too . . . and I have to say that I regularly want to go back to Italia. I’ve just put my Christmas tree up, and I keep seeing the one in front of the cathedral :-).

      Reply
  11. Ellen Hawley December 20, 2015 at 6:55 am

    Cooking lessons? Makes me want to teleport myself there instantly.

    Reply
    1. Ann December 20, 2015 at 7:05 am

      Hi Ellen, Yes, the cooking lesson was great – and one of those experiences that I now use regularly. Jeanne taught me a lot in that one day, and I enjoyed it so much that I when my sister and my daughter were with me on the next trip, we all went back to cook with her again.

      I think we’ll be going to Spain in the summer — and I will look for cooking lessons there. It’s bringing part of the trip home in a way that is SO much more satisfying than the standard souvenir.

      Ann

      Reply
  12. commonsensegal December 19, 2015 at 5:42 pm

    Very beautiful. Definitely makes one want to go there! No better place to think, to reflect, than such a place, so full of history, of grandiose architecture! Thank you for sharing.

    Reply
    1. Ann December 20, 2015 at 7:09 am

      Thank you. It was a very special time, and just thinking about it makes me feel warm and calm — and now it’s part of what I think about at Christmas.

      Reply
  13. the dune mouse December 15, 2015 at 3:08 am

    gorgeous photos of this beautiful city!! A wonderful read!

    Reply
    1. Ann December 15, 2015 at 5:17 am

      Thank you so much :-).

      Reply
  14. Ishita December 13, 2015 at 11:59 pm

    Loved this post. So glad you could bounce back 🙂 Enjoy the Bel paese.

    Reply
    1. Ann December 14, 2015 at 5:21 am

      Thank you so much!

      Reply
  15. Smiling Notes December 13, 2015 at 10:56 am

    Loved your post! So glad to come across your blog!

    Reply
    1. Ann December 13, 2015 at 11:15 am

      Thank you!

      Reply
  16. pattimoed December 13, 2015 at 8:40 am

    Hi Ann. You’ve just re-ignited my passion for Firenze. Thanks so much for the great post and tips for our next stay there!

    Reply
    1. Ann December 13, 2015 at 9:07 am

      Hi Patricia, I am so happy to hear that. I love Firenze dearly, and anything I can do — answer questions, etc. I’m happy to do. I’ve finally added a “Contact” page so I can email you directly if it’s helpful.

      Reply
      1. pattimoed December 13, 2015 at 11:12 am

        Thanks, Ann. I’ve bookmarked the apartments for our next trip there.

        Reply
        1. Ann December 13, 2015 at 11:24 am

          Wonderful. I look forward to the day that I can go and stay for an extended period. Work is just to darned intrusive!

          Reply
          1. pattimoed December 13, 2015 at 11:28 am

            It does ruin things, doesn’t it??? 🙂

  17. luckyotter December 13, 2015 at 8:27 am

    Beautiful! It looks like you had a wonderful time!

    Reply
    1. Ann December 13, 2015 at 9:01 am

      I did have a wonderful time. So much so that I’ve been back to Italy two additional times. Who knows? Perhaps I’ll retire there one day :-).

      Reply
  18. Josh Wrenn December 12, 2015 at 8:00 pm

    Want to go now! Glad you got to experience that!

    Reply
    1. Ann December 12, 2015 at 11:46 pm

      Thank you, Josh — it was an amazing trip. When you have a chance to go, if there is anything I can do to help, just let me know.

      Reply
  19. Peter Harvard December 12, 2015 at 1:46 pm

    Oh! Ann, it’s wonderful…

    I’m sending this after a boring American Legion meeting, without my laptop, so it’ll be a while before I can read it again.

    Thanks for the chance to hear your verbal rough draft in person. More, more!

    Peter

    Sent from iME!

    >

    Reply
  20. sonia&paolo December 12, 2015 at 11:52 am

    Ann………..wow!!!!! We are speechless…..

    Reply
    1. Ann December 12, 2015 at 1:49 pm

      Ciao Sonia e Paolo! Well — it’s about time I started writing about how Italy makes me feel.

      Reply

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